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CONDORIRI 5648 Mtrs.

CONDORIRI 5648 mtrs.

The Condoriri, which in aymara means "condor head", is possibly one of the most beatiful mountains in the Cordillera Real (called this way by the spanish conquerors owing to its majestuosity - Real = Royal), and of the entire Andes range. Since it is within a short hike from La Paz, the Condoriri area is very popular in Bolivia, and a must for every foreign visitor.
Declared by the state as a National Park on July 4th. 1942.
This mountainous region is internationally famous for the snow covered group of peaks known as the Condoriri massif. The highest mountain in this group has been compared with the Cervin. From far and near it is seen to have the shape of a giant condor with its wings unfurled. Its highest summit reaches 5.700m. above sea level. There are thirty peaks of which fifteen are the most important, and ten stand out for their beauty and popularity. These same form part of a great and spectacular amphitheatre.
The principal summit of this massif is the Cabeza de Cóndor (the Head of the Condor) which presents a normal route, fairly easy but tiring. It has a drop of 1.000 m. and it can be climbed in one or two days, beginning at the base camp.
The Right wing and the left wing are truly climbing feats with mixed face of 55 to 60 degrees. They are recommended for climbers with technical experience and good physical preparation.
The other peaks can be climbed easily in a day, but are very esthetic, the best of all being the Pequeño Alpamayo.
The Aguja Negra (Black Needle) offers a rock climb of a great magnitude wich may be recommended for rock climbing experts.


Day One BASE CAMP.- Departure by car to Tuni Condoriri lake, site of an important dam which provides drinking water for La Paz. 2 hour trip, 60 Kms. Arrival at the Plaza de Llamas (place of the llamas) where these are waiting to transport equipment and food. We take advantage of this occasion for a brief lunch. Then we start trekking to approach the Condoriri amphitheatre, entering the valley of the same name (2 hour walk). This first journey is very esthetic and fairly easy. Finally, we reach the amphitheatre's lake, which is called Chiarkhota (Black lake). We are now at 4.650 m. above sea level. Camp near the lake. The peaks give the impression that they are about to fall on us. Free afternoon to rest, take photos and chat while dinner is being prepared.

Day Two. TREKKING.- To either Apacheta hill (5.200 m.) or Mirador (5.050 m.). This short walk permits us to recognize all of the peaks of the Condoriri group and to take really good photos. At the same time, we can assess the degree to which the group has become acclimatized.

Day Tree . PEQUENO ALPAMAYO.- Today, we arrive at the glacier with all of the equipment required to get to the summits of five peaks between 5.200 m. and 5.350 m. This climb permits us to take advantage of the height gained on the first summit to connect with the other summits using the route that we have opened. It is a circuit that is easy to alter, for any of the summits may be omitted, according to the wishes of the group's members.The first part is quite tiring, as it consists of moraines and glacier fields. After climbing for about 5 hours we arrive at the summit of Pequeña Ilusión. Then we continue to the next connecting summit. Pirámide Blanca (White Pyramid).
The views during this ascent are fantastic. Another pass leads us to the top of Pequeño Alpamayo. (3 hour climb from Pequeña Ilusión). It's our highest summit today (5.350 m.). While comming down we pass by the summit of Diente (Tooth), leaving the glacier at about 18:00.

Day Fourt . CLIMBING THE HEAD OF THE CONDOR.- 7 hour climb up to the top at 5.700 m. above sea level. It's the most important ascent of the expedition. 7 hour climb that requires ice and snow experience. Return to base camp in 3 hours.


» Private transportation by jeep o by car from La Paz city.
» Certified mountain guide with extensive experience leading large expedition.(AGMT).
» Assistant guide besides 4 people.
» Cocker/all food (3 meals per day), cocking equipment.
» Mountain tent quality(3 persons) + - Mountain tent quality(3 persons) + . .
» Personal technical equipment :
» Climbing boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, gaiters.

» Warm clothes : Jacket, polar, gloves and hood...
» Trekking shoes, long underwear.
» Sun glasses, cream sun protection.
» Water bottle and 2 liters.2 batteries AA.
» Flashlight, including extra batteries and bulbs.
» Mountain sleeping bag (-10°c).
» Camera (enough fill, preferably ASA 400).
»Backpack 40 L. and small backpack..


If you would like any further information please do not hesitate to contact us write to our e-mail. incalandbolivia@hotmail.com

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